Far North Queensland Chinese Heritage Trail

Multiple Locations

Cairns is the gateway to the World Heritage listed Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics rainforests. Amongst the early settlers of the region were many Chinese who came to Cairns and Cooktown in the mid-1870s, heading to the Hodgkinson goldfields, located west of Cairns and Cooktown.

After the alluvial gold ran out, many Chinese turned to farming. The Chinese were also involved in bêche de mer (sea cucumber) harvesting and processing. Picturesque Lizard Island, a short flight from Cairns, has stone remnants from these operations.

The Cairns and District Chinese Association holds annual Chinese New Year celebrations in Grafton Street - Cairns Chinatown - once a bustling assortment of shops, dwellings and two temples. Travel north from Cairns, via Port Douglas to Cooktown. Cooktown once had a large Chinese population, with a temple located on Adelaide Street. Temple artefacts are now displayed at the James Cook Historical Museum, while the cemetery includes a Chinese shrine.

The Atherton Tableland circuit will take you to the Hou Wang in Atherton, through farmlands where the Chinese grew maize and down to Innisfail where the Chinese worked in the sugar and banana industries and where you can see the Lit Sing Gung Temple.

Journey Details

Duration
7.75 Hours
Distance
711 Kilometres

Full Itinerary

Continue to explore the beauty of the Atherton Tableland. The towns of Malanda and Millaa Millaa both have scenic waterfalls. Descend the range through the thick rainforest towards Innisfail. Pull over at Crawford's Lookout with commanding views of the steep ravine of the Johnstone River on your left. Both Chinese and European prospectors were busy panning for gold here in 1884.

Leaving the forest, the land cleared by Chinese workers in the 1880s-90s is now cultivated with tea and bananas. Cane is grown on the flat land towards Innisfail. Chinese were employed on sugar plantations to the east of Innisfail. Innisfail evolved from a sugar plantation, established by James Fitzgerald in 1880. The Chinese community soon began growing bananas and small crops to supply the new settlement. Boats were built locally in traditional Chinese style and ferried bananas to ships anchored near the town.

The cyclone of March 1918 destroyed most buildings in Innisfail. The town rebuilt in brick or concrete in the architectural style of the time and Innisfail now claims to be the Art Deco capital of Australia. The Lit Sing Gung Chinese temple was damaged and repaired before a new concrete building opened in 1941

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Route Details
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Route Type One Way

Lizard Island is situated north east of Cooktown. You can take a one hour flight from Cairns as a day trip, with amazing views of the Great Barrier Reef. Better still; plan a longer stay at the exclusive resort, or camp at Watsons Bay. Snorkel the reefs or explore the island on foot. Delve into the rainforest, or relax on the beach. A short walk inland from Watson's Bay will bring you to the stone ruins of the bêche-de-mer operations.

Reflect on Captain James Cook's opinion of the island when he sheltered here in August 1770: 'There is, perhaps, not a better place on the whole coast....to refresh at than this Island. Climb Cook's Lookout and imagine searching for a passage through the reef to the east.'

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Route Type Return

Cairns is a beautiful tropical city tucked into the foothills of the Atherton Tableland. The Flecker Botanic Gardens are located on a site once occupied by Chinese market gardeners. A Chinese Friendship Garden has been created at Freshwater Lakes in the Cairns Botanic Garden precinct acknowledging Cairns' sister city relationship with Zhanjiang in the Guangdong Province from where many North Queensland Chinese migrated.

The McLeod Street Pioneer Cemetery has a section of unmarked Chinese burials. The interpretation panels in the rotunda assist in site identification.

Cairns Chinatown in the Central Business District was once a bustling street of shops and businesses, bounded by Sheridan, Shields, Spence and Lake streets, with Sachs (now Grafton) Street in the centre. Residents belonged to different cultural districts from Guangdong province in Southern China. Each group built a temple on either side of Sachs Street.

The Earlville Shopping Centre to the south of Cairns was the site of the Hap Wah plantation, the first in the Cairns district to produce both cotton and sugar. The Hap Wah (joint venture) Company established with 80 Hong Kong investors, employed 60 Chinese workers. The plantation also produced rice. The shopping centre displays a commemorative plaque to the plantation.

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Mode of Travel Car
Route Type Circuit

The Cairns to Cooktown route travels by the Cook Highway through to Port Douglas, and the Mulligan Highway to Cooktown. The Cook Highway to Port Douglas passes through forest and sandy coves until it reaches the Mowbray River. Travel through the cane fields to Port Douglas Road. The Chinese used to grow rice, maize and bananas here.

Depart Port Douglas, calling in at Mossman Gorge. Continue to Cooktown, where Captain Cook repaired the HMS Endeavour in 1770. Sections of the Cooktown Botanic Gardens were originally occupied by Chinese market gardeners. Cooktown was the port for the Palmer River goldfields in the early 1870s. The Hop Kee Company was landing around a thousand Chinese miners a month at this time. The Chinese community occupied the block bounded by Adelaide, Furneaux, Charlotte and Walker streets. Their temple faced the sea across Adelaide Street. The temple is no longer there, but temple artefacts are housed at James Cook Museum.

At the northern end of the Esplanade, pause at Cooktown's Chinese Monument acknowledging the contribution made by Chinese miners and market gardeners. The Cooktown Cemetery contains numerous Chinese graves and a shrine.

Return to Cairns.

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Mode of Travel Car
Route Type Return

Depart Cairns, travelling north through Smithfield towards the Tablelands, and enjoy the panoramic coastal views en-route to Kuranda. If you have a spare day, the Kuranda Railway is a spectacular option, returning to Cairns on the Skyrail.

The Atherton Tablelands were opened up by timber getters and tin miners. Landowners employed Chinese to clear the land, later leasing property to them for cultivation.

A short detour via Kairi will take you past the maize silos. The Chinese initiated the maize and peanut industries here, although they were later displaced to provide land for returned WWI soldiers to farm.

The town of Atherton still retains Chinese shops, such as Jue Sue's next to the Grand Hotel. Just south of the town are remarkable remnants of Chinese occupation, including the Hou Wang Temple and the Chinese Museum. A Chinese museum is housed in the old Atherton Post Office, relocated to the entrance of the former Chinatown site.

The Atherton Tableland is a food lovers' haven offering a range of local products, while local artisans produce hand crafted timber products, paintings and jewellery.

Visit remnant volcanoes, crater lakes, waterfalls and amazing strangler fig trees, encapsulated in remnant rain forests.

Route Details
Mode of Travel Car
Route Type One Way

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Kawana

Kawana, Rockhampton Area
Kawana Waters is home to one of the region’s premier sports and entertainment precincts that includes Stockland Park and the Lake Kawana Community Centre. Both host major events year round. The man-made waterway of Lake Kawana has become popular with a number of sports including kayaking, canoeing, outrigging, dragon boat racing and motorised boats.

Beerwah

Beerwah, Sunshine Coast Area
Beerwah is a thriving small country town and home to Australia Zoo. Located just an hour drive north of Brisbane and a short drive from the Sunshine Coast, Beerwah is the perfect location to explore the Sunshine Coast hinterland.

Golden Beach

Golden Beach, Sunshine Coast Area
Hugging the shores of the Pumicestone Passage, Golden beach is perfect for boating, fishing and swimming in calmer waters than Caloundra’s nearby surf beaches. A coastal path winds its way to central Caloundra, passing shady barbecue areas close to playgrounds that will keep the children occupied for hours.

Caloundra Cruise

Pelican Waters, Sunshine Coast Area
From AU$22 - 55
Caloundra Cruise is an iconic Sunshine Coast attractions suitable for all ages. Sunday and Tuesday to Friday, on the 90 minute Smoothwater Classic Cruise, discover the spectacular beauty of this marine environment with abundant bird life and locals at play.

Tanawha

Tanawha, Sunshine Coast Area
Take a step back to yesteryear and imagine yourself in the court of King Louis the XIV with a visit to the Sunshine Coast’s very own giant living hedge maze! Located at Tanawha just 10 minutes’ drive inland from Maroochydore, this impressive outdoor maze has been painstakingly sculptured from over 1000 trees and is the only maze of its kind in Australia.

Kings Beach

Kings Beach, Sunshine Coast Area
Kings Beach has a festive atmosphere year-round, so whenever you visit, you’ll be assured of plenty of fun in the golden sunshine. Between the enchanting rockpools, the child-friendly water fountain with its time-delayed surprise spurts of water, the oceanfront saltwater swimming pool, and the gentle beach break with protected swimming areas, a Kings Beach holiday is totally exhilarating.

Sippy Downs

Sippy Downs, Sunshine Coast Area
Bordered on one side by the beautiful Mooloolah River National Park, and on the other by the Maroochy Bushland Botanic Gardens, Sippy Downs on the Sunshine Coast is best known for the system of picture-postcard lakes that pepper the area.

Glass House Mountains National Park

Glass House Mountains, Sunshine Coast Area
Free Entry
The Glass House Mountain peaks are a distinctive landmark in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. Craggy peaks tower over a scenic patchwork of pine plantations, bushland and cultivated fields. Many of the peaks are protected in Glass House Mountains National Par, and are listed on the Queensland and National Heritage Register as a landscape of national significance.

Bribie Island National Park and Recreation Area

Bribie Island, Moreton Bay Area
Free Entry
Bribie Island, about an hour's drive from Brisbane is a treasure trove of plants and animals. The island is fringed by sandy beaches and sand dunes. Heaths, paperbark wetlands and freshwater creeks and lagoons, along with open forests are home to varied birdlife.

Palmview

Palmview, Sunshine Coast Area
Centrally located on the Sunshine Coast, Palmview is right on the Bruce Highway and just 10 minutes drive from the golden beaches of beautiful Mooloolaba. The breath-taking Sunshine Coast Hinterland is just 15 minutes up the road and the pristine Mooloolah National Park is right next door.
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