Far North Queensland Chinese Heritage Trail

Multiple Locations

Cairns is the gateway to the World Heritage listed Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics rainforests. Amongst the early settlers of the region were many Chinese who came to Cairns and Cooktown in the mid-1870s, heading to the Hodgkinson goldfields, located west of Cairns and Cooktown.

After the alluvial gold ran out, many Chinese turned to farming. The Chinese were also involved in bêche de mer (sea cucumber) harvesting and processing. Picturesque Lizard Island, a short flight from Cairns, has stone remnants from these operations.

The Cairns and District Chinese Association holds annual Chinese New Year celebrations in Grafton Street - Cairns Chinatown - once a bustling assortment of shops, dwellings and two temples. Travel north from Cairns, via Port Douglas to Cooktown. Cooktown once had a large Chinese population, with a temple located on Adelaide Street. Temple artefacts are now displayed at the James Cook Historical Museum, while the cemetery includes a Chinese shrine.

The Atherton Tableland circuit will take you to the Hou Wang in Atherton, through farmlands where the Chinese grew maize and down to Innisfail where the Chinese worked in the sugar and banana industries and where you can see the Lit Sing Gung Temple.

Journey Details

Duration
7.75 Hours
Distance
711 Kilometres

Full Itinerary

Continue to explore the beauty of the Atherton Tableland. The towns of Malanda and Millaa Millaa both have scenic waterfalls. Descend the range through the thick rainforest towards Innisfail. Pull over at Crawford's Lookout with commanding views of the steep ravine of the Johnstone River on your left. Both Chinese and European prospectors were busy panning for gold here in 1884.

Leaving the forest, the land cleared by Chinese workers in the 1880s-90s is now cultivated with tea and bananas. Cane is grown on the flat land towards Innisfail. Chinese were employed on sugar plantations to the east of Innisfail. Innisfail evolved from a sugar plantation, established by James Fitzgerald in 1880. The Chinese community soon began growing bananas and small crops to supply the new settlement. Boats were built locally in traditional Chinese style and ferried bananas to ships anchored near the town.

The cyclone of March 1918 destroyed most buildings in Innisfail. The town rebuilt in brick or concrete in the architectural style of the time and Innisfail now claims to be the Art Deco capital of Australia. The Lit Sing Gung Chinese temple was damaged and repaired before a new concrete building opened in 1941

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Lizard Island is situated north east of Cooktown. You can take a one hour flight from Cairns as a day trip, with amazing views of the Great Barrier Reef. Better still; plan a longer stay at the exclusive resort, or camp at Watsons Bay. Snorkel the reefs or explore the island on foot. Delve into the rainforest, or relax on the beach. A short walk inland from Watson's Bay will bring you to the stone ruins of the bêche-de-mer operations.

Reflect on Captain James Cook's opinion of the island when he sheltered here in August 1770: 'There is, perhaps, not a better place on the whole coast....to refresh at than this Island. Climb Cook's Lookout and imagine searching for a passage through the reef to the east.'

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Cairns is a beautiful tropical city tucked into the foothills of the Atherton Tableland. The Flecker Botanic Gardens are located on a site once occupied by Chinese market gardeners. A Chinese Friendship Garden has been created at Freshwater Lakes in the Cairns Botanic Garden precinct acknowledging Cairns' sister city relationship with Zhanjiang in the Guangdong Province from where many North Queensland Chinese migrated.

The McLeod Street Pioneer Cemetery has a section of unmarked Chinese burials. The interpretation panels in the rotunda assist in site identification.

Cairns Chinatown in the Central Business District was once a bustling street of shops and businesses, bounded by Sheridan, Shields, Spence and Lake streets, with Sachs (now Grafton) Street in the centre. Residents belonged to different cultural districts from Guangdong province in Southern China. Each group built a temple on either side of Sachs Street.

The Earlville Shopping Centre to the south of Cairns was the site of the Hap Wah plantation, the first in the Cairns district to produce both cotton and sugar. The Hap Wah (joint venture) Company established with 80 Hong Kong investors, employed 60 Chinese workers. The plantation also produced rice. The shopping centre displays a commemorative plaque to the plantation.

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Route Type Circuit

The Cairns to Cooktown route travels by the Cook Highway through to Port Douglas, and the Mulligan Highway to Cooktown. The Cook Highway to Port Douglas passes through forest and sandy coves until it reaches the Mowbray River. Travel through the cane fields to Port Douglas Road. The Chinese used to grow rice, maize and bananas here.

Depart Port Douglas, calling in at Mossman Gorge. Continue to Cooktown, where Captain Cook repaired the HMS Endeavour in 1770. Sections of the Cooktown Botanic Gardens were originally occupied by Chinese market gardeners. Cooktown was the port for the Palmer River goldfields in the early 1870s. The Hop Kee Company was landing around a thousand Chinese miners a month at this time. The Chinese community occupied the block bounded by Adelaide, Furneaux, Charlotte and Walker streets. Their temple faced the sea across Adelaide Street. The temple is no longer there, but temple artefacts are housed at James Cook Museum.

At the northern end of the Esplanade, pause at Cooktown's Chinese Monument acknowledging the contribution made by Chinese miners and market gardeners. The Cooktown Cemetery contains numerous Chinese graves and a shrine.

Return to Cairns.

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Route Type Return

Depart Cairns, travelling north through Smithfield towards the Tablelands, and enjoy the panoramic coastal views en-route to Kuranda. If you have a spare day, the Kuranda Railway is a spectacular option, returning to Cairns on the Skyrail.

The Atherton Tablelands were opened up by timber getters and tin miners. Landowners employed Chinese to clear the land, later leasing property to them for cultivation.

A short detour via Kairi will take you past the maize silos. The Chinese initiated the maize and peanut industries here, although they were later displaced to provide land for returned WWI soldiers to farm.

The town of Atherton still retains Chinese shops, such as Jue Sue's next to the Grand Hotel. Just south of the town are remarkable remnants of Chinese occupation, including the Hou Wang Temple and the Chinese Museum. A Chinese museum is housed in the old Atherton Post Office, relocated to the entrance of the former Chinatown site.

The Atherton Tableland is a food lovers' haven offering a range of local products, while local artisans produce hand crafted timber products, paintings and jewellery.

Visit remnant volcanoes, crater lakes, waterfalls and amazing strangler fig trees, encapsulated in remnant rain forests.

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Mode of Travel Car
Route Type One Way

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Pullman Palm Cove Sea Temple Resort & Spa

Palm Cove, Cairns Area
From AU$299 - 1149
Located in the very heart of majestic Palm Cove, Pullman Palm Cove Sea Temple Resort and Spa is the absolute luxury escape. Designed for those with total luxury in mind, this magnificent resort features 126 luxuriously appointed studios, apartments and stunning penthouses with the choice of luxurious swim-outs, private plunge pool and rooftop terraces.

Pullman Reef Hotel Casino

Cairns, Cairns Area
From AU$275.00 - 1800
Pullman Reef Hotel Casino is a deluxe hotel where the emphasis is on quality, sophistication and elegance. Its central location and distinctive friendly Australian character has captivated guests and it is a favourite place for visitors from both Australia and overseas.

Paradise On The Beach Resort

Palm Cove, Cairns Area
From AU$160 - 360
Framed by giant melaleuca trees, Paradise on the Beach is Palm Cove's hidden secret. Located just 15 metres from a picture perfect tropical beach edged by palm trees and a sparkling seascape of offshore islands.

Thala Beach Nature Reserve

Oak Beach, Douglas Area
From AU$256.00 - 899.00
Thala Beach Nature Reserve is a deluxe family-owned eco and wildlife retreat on Oak Beach 15 minutes south of Port Douglas. Overlooking the Coral Sea, Thala’s 83 deluxe eco-designed bungalows are set amongst 58-hectares of lush native beachfront native forest.

Fitzroy Island Resort

Fitzroy Island, Cairns Area
From AU$155 - 410
Fitzroy Island is a tropical paradise of rainforest and coral beaches within the calm sheltered waters of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Australia, located only 29 kilometres off Cairns. Just 45 minutes by Fast Cat, Fitzroy Island Resort offers affordable 4.

Hilton Cairns

Cairns, Cairns Area
From AU$149 - 934
Situated in lush Tropical North Queensland and set overlooking Trinity Inlet and Marlin Marina, Hilton Cairns is the ideal base from which to explore the region's many attractions. Hilton Cairns continues to demonstrate a commitment to industry leadership and innovation.

Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort and Spa

Port Douglas, Douglas Area
From AU$299 - 1299
Located in one of the most internationally acclaimed locations in Australia on Four Mile Beach, Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort and Spa has been designed with the utmost luxury and relaxation in mind.

Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore

Palm Cove, Cairns Area
From AU$221 - 1066
Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore is a luxury resort in Palm Cove, situated on the absolute beachfront. Just a matter of steps and you are surrounded by the beach, sea and swaying palms. Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore offers 69 luxurious one, two, three bedrooms apartment-style suites, each with en-suite and second bathroom, dining and lounge area, fully equipped kitchen including Nespresso coffee machine, laundry with washing machine and dryer, balcony or terrace overlooking the pool or ocean depending on booked room type - the perfect place to relax at the end of the day.

Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort Port Douglas

Port Douglas, Douglas Area
From AU$329 - 1199
Welcome to Port Douglas, one of Australia's most stunning holiday destinations in Tropical North Queensland and the gateway to explore the world famous Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest. A newly renovated beachfront luxury resort on famous Four Mile Beach surrounded by 147 hectares of lush tropical gardens, 2 hectares of sparkling saltwater lagoon pools and an 18-hole golf course, their resort amenities and service will make you feel at home in paradise.

Silky Oaks Lodge and Healing Waters Spa

Mossman, Douglas Area
From AU$396 - 898
From the moment you arrive at Silky Oaks Lodge overlooking the Mossman River, you will feel the aura of the Daintree, the oldest living rainforest on earth. Simply relax, escape from everyday life or get out and discover many of the Regions attractions.
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Note: Information on listed products and services are provided by the operator and were correct at the time of publishing. Rates are indicative based on the minimum and maximum available prices of products and services. Please visit the operator’s website for further information. All prices quoted are in Australian dollars (AUD).