Far North Queensland Chinese Heritage Trail

Multiple Locations

Cairns is the gateway to the World Heritage listed Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics rainforests. Amongst the early settlers of the region were many Chinese who came to Cairns and Cooktown in the mid-1870s, heading to the Hodgkinson goldfields, located west of Cairns and Cooktown.

After the alluvial gold ran out, many Chinese turned to farming. The Chinese were also involved in bêche de mer (sea cucumber) harvesting and processing. Picturesque Lizard Island, a short flight from Cairns, has stone remnants from these operations.

The Cairns and District Chinese Association holds annual Chinese New Year celebrations in Grafton Street - Cairns Chinatown - once a bustling assortment of shops, dwellings and two temples. Travel north from Cairns, via Port Douglas to Cooktown. Cooktown once had a large Chinese population, with a temple located on Adelaide Street. Temple artefacts are now displayed at the James Cook Historical Museum, while the cemetery includes a Chinese shrine.

The Atherton Tableland circuit will take you to the Hou Wang in Atherton, through farmlands where the Chinese grew maize and down to Innisfail where the Chinese worked in the sugar and banana industries and where you can see the Lit Sing Gung Temple.

Journey Details

Duration
7.75 Hours
Distance
711 Kilometres

Full itinerary

Continue to explore the beauty of the Atherton Tableland. The towns of Malanda and Millaa Millaa both have scenic waterfalls. Descend the range through the thick rainforest towards Innisfail. Pull over at Crawford's Lookout with commanding views of the steep ravine of the Johnstone River on your left. Both Chinese and European prospectors were busy panning for gold here in 1884.

Leaving the forest, the land cleared by Chinese workers in the 1880s-90s is now cultivated with tea and bananas. Cane is grown on the flat land towards Innisfail. Chinese were employed on sugar plantations to the east of Innisfail. Innisfail evolved from a sugar plantation, established by James Fitzgerald in 1880. The Chinese community soon began growing bananas and small crops to supply the new settlement. Boats were built locally in traditional Chinese style and ferried bananas to ships anchored near the town.

The cyclone of March 1918 destroyed most buildings in Innisfail. The town rebuilt in brick or concrete in the architectural style of the time and Innisfail now claims to be the Art Deco capital of Australia. The Lit Sing Gung Chinese temple was damaged and repaired before a new concrete building opened in 1941

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Route Details
Mode of Travel Car
Route Type One Way

Lizard Island is situated north east of Cooktown. You can take a one hour flight from Cairns as a day trip, with amazing views of the Great Barrier Reef. Better still; plan a longer stay at the exclusive resort, or camp at Watsons Bay. Snorkel the reefs or explore the island on foot. Delve into the rainforest, or relax on the beach. A short walk inland from Watson's Bay will bring you to the stone ruins of the bêche-de-mer operations.

Reflect on Captain James Cook's opinion of the island when he sheltered here in August 1770: 'There is, perhaps, not a better place on the whole coast....to refresh at than this Island. Climb Cook's Lookout and imagine searching for a passage through the reef to the east.'

Route Details
Mode of Travel Plane
Route Type Return

Cairns is a beautiful tropical city tucked into the foothills of the Atherton Tableland. The Flecker Botanic Gardens are located on a site once occupied by Chinese market gardeners. A Chinese Friendship Garden has been created at Freshwater Lakes in the Cairns Botanic Garden precinct acknowledging Cairns' sister city relationship with Zhanjiang in the Guangdong Province from where many North Queensland Chinese migrated.

The McLeod Street Pioneer Cemetery has a section of unmarked Chinese burials. The interpretation panels in the rotunda assist in site identification.

Cairns Chinatown in the Central Business District was once a bustling street of shops and businesses, bounded by Sheridan, Shields, Spence and Lake streets, with Sachs (now Grafton) Street in the centre. Residents belonged to different cultural districts from Guangdong province in Southern China. Each group built a temple on either side of Sachs Street.

The Earlville Shopping Centre to the south of Cairns was the site of the Hap Wah plantation, the first in the Cairns district to produce both cotton and sugar. The Hap Wah (joint venture) Company established with 80 Hong Kong investors, employed 60 Chinese workers. The plantation also produced rice. The shopping centre displays a commemorative plaque to the plantation.

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Mode of Travel Car
Route Type Circuit

The Cairns to Cooktown route travels by the Cook Highway through to Port Douglas, and the Mulligan Highway to Cooktown. The Cook Highway to Port Douglas passes through forest and sandy coves until it reaches the Mowbray River. Travel through the cane fields to Port Douglas Road. The Chinese used to grow rice, maize and bananas here.

Depart Port Douglas, calling in at Mossman Gorge. Continue to Cooktown, where Captain Cook repaired the HMS Endeavour in 1770. Sections of the Cooktown Botanic Gardens were originally occupied by Chinese market gardeners. Cooktown was the port for the Palmer River goldfields in the early 1870s. The Hop Kee Company was landing around a thousand Chinese miners a month at this time. The Chinese community occupied the block bounded by Adelaide, Furneaux, Charlotte and Walker streets. Their temple faced the sea across Adelaide Street. The temple is no longer there, but temple artefacts are housed at James Cook Museum.

At the northern end of the Esplanade, pause at Cooktown's Chinese Monument acknowledging the contribution made by Chinese miners and market gardeners. The Cooktown Cemetery contains numerous Chinese graves and a shrine.

Return to Cairns.

Route Details
Mode of Travel Car
Route Type Return

Depart Cairns, travelling north through Smithfield towards the Tablelands, and enjoy the panoramic coastal views en-route to Kuranda. If you have a spare day, the Kuranda Railway is a spectacular option, returning to Cairns on the Skyrail.

The Atherton Tablelands were opened up by timber getters and tin miners. Landowners employed Chinese to clear the land, later leasing property to them for cultivation.

A short detour via Kairi will take you past the maize silos. The Chinese initiated the maize and peanut industries here, although they were later displaced to provide land for returned WWI soldiers to farm.

The town of Atherton still retains Chinese shops, such as Jue Sue's next to the Grand Hotel. Just south of the town are remarkable remnants of Chinese occupation, including the Hou Wang Temple and the Chinese Museum. A Chinese museum is housed in the old Atherton Post Office, relocated to the entrance of the former Chinatown site.

The Atherton Tableland is a food lovers' haven offering a range of local products, while local artisans produce hand crafted timber products, paintings and jewellery.

Visit remnant volcanoes, crater lakes, waterfalls and amazing strangler fig trees, encapsulated in remnant rain forests.

Route Details
Mode of Travel Car
Route Type One Way

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Finch Hatton Gorge

Finch Hatton, Mackay Area
Free Entry
A wonderful landscape of waterfalls, lush flora and volcanic boulder formations make Finch Hatton Gorge a must-see attraction. There are many walking tracks which weave through sub-tropical rainforest.

Platypus Beach, Mirani

Mirani, Mackay Area
Free Entry
Platypus Beach is a popular swimming hole for locals and tourists, a little slice of sandy paradise on the bank of the Pioneer River, near the country town of Mirani. This is a beautiful location to enjoy swimming, kayaking, paddle boarding and picnics.

Teemburra Dam

Pinnacle, Mackay Area
Free Entry
Located in the picturesque Pioneer Valley, Teemburra Dam is approximately 50 kilometres west of Mackay City on a fully sealed road. The dam is a nature-lover's paradise. Made up of a mass of inlets and coves, it is easy to become entranced with the birds, fish and platypus which inhabit the area.

Broken River

Eungella, Mackay Area
Free Entry
Located within the cool tranquillity of Eungella National Park, Broken River is touted as one of the best locations in the world to see a rare marsupial in the wild, a platypus. A little over a one hour drive from Mackay, travel through the picturesque Pioneer Valley and climb the mountain range to Eungella township.

Gargett

Gargett, Mackay Area
Gargett is located approximately 65 kilometres west of Mackay city in the picturesque Pioneer Valley. This friendly little township has a local hotel that provides meals with a very interesting bric-a-brac shop close by.

Eungella National Park

Eungella, Mackay Area
Free Entry
Eungella National Park, sitting high above the surrounding plains, is a mist-shrouded and forest-clad mountain refuge harbouring diverse plants and wildlife. One of Queensland’s most ecologically diverse parks, a visit to Eungella is both an exciting adventure and an escape to tranquillity.

Kuttabul

Kuttabul, Mackay Area
Kuttabul is a character-filled rural town, approximately 33 kilometres north-west of Mackay on the Bruce Highway. The Kuttabul Hotel is the heart of the area, hosting a vast array of entertainment throughout the year, as well as providing warm rural service.

Pinnacle

Pinnacle, Mackay Area
Pinnacle is situated in the Pioneer Valley and is approximately 64 kilometres west of Mackay city. A relatively new addition to the Pinnacle area is Teemburra Dam, constructed to facilitate much needed irrigation to the local sugar cane farms.

Eungella Dam

Eungella, Mackay Area
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Eungella Dam is a scenic lake fringed by rainforest, the ideal spot for boating and skiing with peaceful natural surrounds. Camping is by self-registration on-site. No motorbikes allowed. Fishing permits are required and can be obtained from local tackle shops and Mackay Tourism.

Mirani

Mirani, Mackay Area
Mirani is situated 38 kilometres west of Mackay in the Pioneer Valley. It boasts a museum and library, Post Office, Olympic sized swimming pool, caravan park and 18 hole golf course. The 112 year old Mirani Hotel can supply you with a cold beer and some interesting yarns from the locals.
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